4 Reasons to Have a Home Inspection

You’ve moved in. You’ve redecorated. You’ve settled in and you’ve even hung those nifty new curtains you bought a few months back. 

 

One night, you wake up freezing.  When you’re in the process of buying a home, it often feels like you’ve stepped into a world where you always have another item on your rapidly growing to-do list and the sealing tape is always disappearing right at the moment you need it.

 

So when you’ve found the house that you want to move into and you’re getting close to making an agreement with the seller, arranging a home inspection can feel like another thing that’s getting piled onto your already overcrowded calendar. 

 

Is the home inspection even necessary? Should you be emulating the 20% of Redfin homebuyers who waived the home inspection in June of 2020?

 

Here are four ways that a home inspection can make your efforts to become a homeowner easier.

1. It Can Simplify Your Final Mortgage Approval

As a general rule, lenders will weigh several factors when qualifying your mortgage application:

 

Your income level, the state of your credit, your debt-to-income ratio, and whatever other financial information that they consider relevant. 

 

However, one of the details on the list of things that lenders care about is whether or not the home is insurable. And how do insurers decide to extend their services?

 

They often rely on the home inspection report to figure things out on their end. So much so that it’s not unusual to see them refuse to insure in the absence of an inspection.

 

At the end of the day, there are lots of factors that may impact your mortgage approval. But a home inspection report can give you one less barrier towards getting that final “Yes.”.

2. The Report Can Save You Money

There are few scenarios where nitpicking to show interest can work in your favor. But surprisingly, home purchases are one of them.

 

If the stairs look like they’ll need professional carpet cleaning or if the cabinet hinge looks like it needs replacing, there are a number of repairs and minor fixes that could land you a surprisingly big discount on your home purchase.

 

At the end of the day, however, buyers and sellers may disagree on what deserves a discount. But when the home inspector is pointing problems out, the report can put some extra weight in your corner as you haggle your way through the home buying process.

3. A Home Inspection Report Can Give You a Heads up on Repairs

Picture this.

 

cold in the dead of winter and you learn the hard way that your furnace was on its last legs. Or, worse, maybe you find out from your doctor that you’ve been breathing in mold over the past few years without realizing it.

 

What happens then?

 

The truth is that sometimes signs of major problems under the hood may not be visible at first. And if you’re not someone who looks at houses for a living, you may not spot some of these issues even after several walkthroughs. 

 

A home inspection report ensures that you’ll be moving into your new home with fewer unknowns. If there’s warping in your bathroom floor or if your air ducts aren’t as clear as they should be, you’ll know once you receive the report.

4. It Lets You Get an Objective, Third-Party Opinion on the Home

When you’re in the thick of a house hunt, it’s easy to start second-guessing yourself.

 

Is this house really everything I’ve hoped for and then some? Is this the right place for me or is it all too good to be true?

 

If the seller wants to get out ASAP, they’ll be doing all they can to present the property in a good light. Or, if they’re not real estate professionals, they may not even know that there are problems with the house.

 

A home inspection report can put many of those nagging doubts to rest. And that peace of mind is something that can’t be underestimated.

 

Conclusion

 

When the end of your home search is so close that you can taste it, it’s only natural to wonder if the home inspection is even needed. 

 

Home inspection reports are often considered a key step in the home buying process because they can simplify your journey towards homeownership. Whether you want to know a little more about the property or you’re searching for a discount, the home inspection report can grease the wheels of your house purchase. 

 

And sometimes, when you’re drowning in the logistics of your mortgage application and your move, these details can make a world of difference.

 

Schedule your Home Inspection with Red Horse Home Inspection.  Call us at 605-490-2916 or easily schedule online.  Follow us on Facebook to get weekly safety and maintenance tips.  Check out a sample home inspection report here.

 

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Make Your Home Safe

May 05, 2021

by clinton_l

Portrait Of Happy Baby Girl Playing With Toys In PlayroomMoving into a new home? If you have children, it’s a great time to make sure your home is safe for the smallest members of your household. Every 30 minutes, a child in the United States is injured as a result of a TV or furniture tip-over incident. Most of those injuries happen at home, involving children younger than 7 years of age.

How do these injuries happen? Generally, they come from climbing. Children spot a toy atop a dresser or bookshelf and decide to monkey their way to it. The unfortunate result is that the child’s weight tips the furniture over. When it comes to television sets – which constitute about half of all injuries – the problem usually comes from oversized screens toppling over after a child grabs it.

What can you do to keep your children safe? Here are tips from the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission:

Secure your television. Televisions that are not wall mounted should be correctly anchored so they won’t move or topple over. Expect that a toddler or small child will try to push or pull the television.

Read all instructions. Follow all manufacturer instructions to secure TVs and furniture. Purchase quality hardware and equipment needed to secure heavy items.

Secure top-heavy furniture. Bookshelves, dressers and other types of furniture are prone to tip-overs. Secure furniture to the wall. You must correctly secure restraints to both the furniture and a stud in the wall. Pay close attention to instructions; incorrect installation can fail to prevent a tip over.

Remove tempting objects. Remove items that might tempt kids to climb, such as toys and remote controls, from the top of the TV and furniture. Store heavy objects on lower shelves or in lower drawers. When securing furniture, pay close attention to anything in your child’s room or where they spend most of their time.

Red Horse Home Inspection of the Black Hills of South Dakota.  We service Rapid City, Sturgis, Spearfish, Deadwood, Lead, Hot Springs, Custer, Hill City, Keystone, Hermosa, Box Elder, New Underwood, Belle Fourche, Newell, and surrounding areas.  If you need to schedule a home inspection give us a call at 605-490-2916 or schedule online.  Follow us on facebook and home maintenance and safety tips for your home.  Check out a sample home inspection report here.

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Garage Door

May 06, 2021

by clinton_l

Garage concept. Garage doors are opened, and behind them is a caYou probably don’t give much thought to your garage door. Yet over the course of a year, your door can go up and down more than 1,000 times! And like any equipment in your home, it can wear out. If you’re buying a new home, having a professional check your garage door before you move in can be a great idea. If you’re already a homeowner, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends annual garage door safety checks.

Garage doors can be dangerous if they aren’t working properly. Each year, more than 30,000 adults and children are injured by garage doors. Most newer garage doors incorporate photoelectric “eyes” that stop and reverse direction in the event a person or object is in the path of the door. This reversing mechanism has been federally mandated in garage doors since the early 1990s. But even the most high-tech garage doors can stop working properly at any time and cause injuries. One way to check if sensors are working properly is to place a roll of paper towels under the pathway of the door and try to lower it. When the door hits the towel roll, it should always reverse direction.

Your garage door also should open and close smoothly. If not, the spring system may need to be adjusted or replaced. Brackets are another issue. They can cause serious injury if they are loose or fall out. Your door’s manual release, which disconnects it from the opener, is another important component of your garage door that should be checked. The manual release mechanism is a rope with a red handle. It’s an important safety feature that can be used if the door malfunctions during power outages or in the event of an emergency. A professional garage door inspector also can help determine if other components need to be replaced.

If you need a home inspection, Red Horse Home Inspection can help.  Give us a call at 605-490-2916 or schedule online.  Check out our facebook page for the lates safety and home maintenance tips.  Check out a sample home inspection report here.

 

 

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Hearths and Hearth Extensions

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard

A fireplace hearth is the floor area within a fireplace. It is made from noncombustible materials, such as brick or stone. The hearth extension is the noncombustible material in front of and at the sides of a fireplace opening. Hearths and hearth extensions are designed to prevent sparks from leaving the fireplace and igniting nearby combustibles.
Guidelines for sufficient thickness and size of hearths and hearth extensions can be found in the International Phase I Standards of Practice for Inspecting Fireplaces and Chimneys and in the manufacturer’s instructions.
The following is from the International Phase I Standards of Practice for Inspecting Fireplaces and Chimneys:
The inspector should inspect for hearth extensions that have a thickness of less than 2 inches.
The inspector should inspect for hearth extensions that are less than 16 inches in front or less than 8 inches beyond each side of fireplace openings (6 square feet or less).
The inspector should inspect for hearth extensions that are less than 20 inches in front or less than 12 inches beyond each side of fireplace openings (greater than 6 square feet).
The inspector should inspect the hearth, hearth extension, and chambers for joint separation, damage and deterioration.
The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) offers the following exception to the 2 inch-thick rule:
When the bottom of the firebox opening is raised at least 8 inches (203 mm) above the top of the hearth extension, a hearth extension of not less than 3/8-inch thick (10 mm) brick, concrete, stone, tile, or other approved noncombustible material is permitted.
Inspectors should note that carpet or tile may obscure the hearth extension so that it may be difficult to tell how thick it is.
In summary, hearths and hearth extensions are noncombustible surfaces designed to prevent fires from spreading beyond the fireplace. If they are not large and thick enough, they might not be sufficient to prevent the spread of fire.
This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/hearth-extensions.htm.
Red Horse Home Inspection LLC is proud to service the Black Hills of South Dakota.  We perform home inspections, radon gas test, and water testing.  We inspect homes in Rapid City, Sturgis, Spearfish, Lead, Deadwood, Hot Springs, Custer, Keystone, Hill City, Hermosa, Box Elder, Summerset, New Underwood, and surrounding areas.  If you are ready to schedule your home inspection give us a call at 605-490-2916 or easily schedule online.
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Defensible Space

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard

Defensible space refers to the area surrounding a building that is mitigated to protect it from wildfires. Along with the quality of a building’s roofing material, adequate defensible space is one of the most important factors in determining a building’s ability to survive a wildfire. Inspectors should know enough about defensible space to educate their clients, particularly in fire-prone regions.
Defensible space performs the following functions:

  1. Ideally, a carefully maintained defensible space will not contain enough fuel to allow a wildfire to reach a house. Even if the space is breached, the fire will have been slowed and weakened, helping firefighters to defend the house.
  2. A defensible space provides an accessible area for fire trucks to park and firefighters to work during a structure fire.
  3. If there is a pond near a burning house, it can be used to replenish a fire truck’s water supply. The perimeter of the pond should be thinned of trees and brush sufficiently so that firefighters can access it.

The size requirements for defensible space vary by jurisdiction because the potential for wildfires varies by region. Buildings in forested areas of the Southwest need a much larger protective space than in New Jersey, for instance. As of 2006, California state law mandates a minimum of 100 feet of defensible space for houses in rural locations. Trees and shrubs surrounding a house should be trimmed and spaced apart a safe distance from one another. Chainsaws can be used to remove trees and branches, pruning shears to trim plants, and rakes for removing pine needles and other ground-level combustibles. Trees that are very close to the house should be removed because this is where fire-prevention is most critical. Vegetation can be plentiful towards the perimeter of the space if it is green and pruned.

Colorado State University divides defensible space into three categories in the following manner:

Zone 1:  The first 15 feet from a home should be devoid of all flammable vegetation. Firewood and other flammable materials should not be stored in this region.

Zone 2:  This area of fuel reduction should extend from Zone 1 outward to between 75 to 125 feet from the structure. Trees and large shrubs should be no less than 10 feet apart, especially in steep terrain. Trees must also be pruned to a height of 10 feet from the ground, and any “ladder fuels” (vegetation with vertical continuity) removed from the base of the trees. Grass, trees and shrubs in this region should be green and adequately spaced. Pine needles, dead leaves, branches, dead or dying vegetation and other flammable debris on the ground should be removed whenever they appear.

Zone 3:  This region of traditional forest management is of no particular size, although it normally extends to the property limits. More trees are permitted here than in Zone 2, although their health and vigor should be maintained.

Precautions That Inspectors Can Pass on to Their Clients
  • Homeowners should obey all environmental protection laws while creating and maintaining defensible spaces. In particular, removal of vegetation should not interfere with the well-being of endangered species, air and water quality, or archaeologically significant resources. Homeowners may need to obtain a permit to cut down trees over a certain size, depending on local jurisdictions.
  • Vegetation removal can cause soil erosion, especially in steep terrain. InterNACHI advises that in areas that are prone to wildfire and soil erosion, it can be helpful to replace highly flammable plants and trees with less-flammable alternatives.
In summary, buildings can be spared from wildfire damage through the removal of surrounding flammable vegetation. Defensible spaces are critical in hot, dry, forested regions, although their presence is recommended everywhere.  This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/defensible-space.htm.
Check out https://sdda.sd.gov/legacydocs/Forestry/publications/PDF/Living-With-Fire.pdf for more information on keeping your home safe from wildfires.
Red Horse Home Inspection is proud to service the Black Hills of South Dakota.  We are certified, licensed and insured.  We offer buyer and seller home inspections, radon gas testing, and water testing.  If you need a home inspection give us a call at 605-490-2916 or you can easily schedule online.  Please like and follow us on Facebook.  Check out a sample home inspection report here.
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Cisterns

by Nick Gromicko, CMI®

Cisterns are tanks that store water for a variety of purposes, such as irrigation, fire suppression and drinking.Fiberglass cistern that you could find during a home inspection in the black hill
Uses
  • Potable water may be stored in cisterns for such purposes as drinking, bathing and dishwashing. Treated water may arrive from public water sources or filtered from rainwater in a catchment system.
  • Non-potable water can be stored for uses such as irrigation and washing cars.
  • Many communities have invested in large cisterns for fire-suppression purposes, some of which can hold more than three times as much water as a typical fire truck. The town of Littleton, New Hampshire, for instance, approved funding for the purchase of 21 cisterns, each with a capacity of 10,000 gallons, at a cost of $41,000 per tank.
Materials

Cisterns must be made from sturdy materials to support an immense water weight. One gallon of water weighs 8.3 pounds (3.7 kg), and each cubic foot of water weighs 62.4 pounds (28.3 kg). Wind loads may also take a toll on exposed elevated tanks. Some common materials used in cistern construction include:

  • reinforced concrete. Often the best investment, reinforced concrete is durable and may help neutralize water acidity.
  • reinforced concrete block. These have a tendency to leak at their joints.
  • metal. However, metal may corrode.
  • fiberglass. Fiberglass may have strength problems when buried. If above ground, fiberglass cisterns should be located in shaded areas to reduce the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.
  • wood. Wooden cisterns are generally not satisfactory, particularly when they are used below ground, because they are difficult to keep sealed.
Inspection

Cisterns, along with all their components and accessories, should undergo regular inspections. Replacement or repair of the unit as a whole, and any of its constituent parts and accessories, should subsequently be undertaken, if needed. The primary concern of a cistern inspection is to detect leaks, which can allow water to escape or contaminants to enter the tank. In addition, the following elements may be inspected:

  • roof catchment, to ensure that no particulate matter or other parts of the roof are entering the gutter and downspout. Rainwater picks up dust, soot, bird droppings, leaves and other foreign materials that add objectionable organisms, color and odor to the water. For this reason, inspect to make sure that overhanging trees are not part of the catchment system;
  • gutters and downspouts should be inspected to assure that no leaks or obstructions are occurring;Above-ground cistern connected to a roof gutter
  • runoff/overflow pipe, to check that overflow is draining in a non-erosive manner;
  • any accessories, such as a rain diverter, soaker hose, linking kit or additional guttering; and
  • cistern drains should not be interconnected with waste or sewer lines, as this may allow backflow contamination.
Maintenance

Maintenance requirements for cisterns are relatively few if they supply non-potable water. Cisterns designed for the drinking water supply have much higher maintenance requirements, such as biannual testing for water quality and filtering systems. The following maintenance guidelines can be followed for most types of cisterns:

  • Before a cistern is used, it should be cleaned and disinfected. After cleaning out any dirt and other debris accumulated during construction, scrub the interior with a bleach-water solution. Make sure that there is ample ventilation for the workers inside the cistern. After this treatment, hose down the interior until the chlorine odor disappears.
  • A cistern needs to be cleaned at least every five years. This might be needed more often where blowing dust, leaves and fireplace or stove ash fall on the roof. Inspecting and cleaning the gutters, downspout and filter will help to keep the cistern cleaner.
  • Keep manhole covers tight.
  • Repair leaks promptly with sealants. Portland cement paints and epoxy resins are available to seal cracks in concrete.
Placement

Although usually located underground, cisterns may be placed at ground level or on elevated stands either outdoors or within buildings. For safety and efficiency considerations, cisterns should be placed:

  • away from sewage lines or other sources of contamination;
  • as far away from trees as possible, as tree roots can crack cistern walls;
  • in areas that are sloped to drain surface water away from the cisterns;
  • near their catchments;
  • in firm ground to avoid settling, which can crack cistern walls; and
  • away from sources of heat.
In summary, cisterns are water storage tanks that must be maintained and inspected, especially if they supply potable water.  This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/cisterns.htm.
Red Horse Home Inspection LLC is proud to service the Black Hills of South Dakota.  We are certified, licensed, and insured.  We offer buyer and seller home inspections, radon gas testing, and water testing.  Red Horse Home Inspection performs inspections in Rapid City, Sturgis, Spearfish, Deadwood, Lead, Hot Springs, Custer, Hill City, Keystone, Hermosa, Rapid Valley, Summerset, Box Elder, New Underwood, and any where in between.  If you are ready to schedule your home inspection give us a call at 605-490-2916 or schedule online.  Follow us on Facebook.  Check out a sample home inspection report and the latest reviews.
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Backflow Prevention

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard

Backflow is the reversal of the normal and intended direction of water flow in a water system. Devices and assemblies known as backflow preventers are installed to prevent backflow, which can contaminate potable water supplies.
Why is backflow a problem?

Backflow is a potential problem in a water system because it can spread contaminated water back through a distribution system. For example, backflow at uncontrolled cross connections (cross-connections are any actual or potential connection between the public water supply and a source of contamination or pollution) can allow pollutants or contaminants to enter the potable water system. Sickness can result from ingesting water that has been contaminated due to backflow.

Backflow may occur under the following two conditions:

back-pressure:
Back-pressure is the reverse from normal flow direction within a piping system as the result of the downstream pressure being higher than the supply pressure. This reduction in supply pressure occurs whenever the amount of water being used exceeds the amount of water being supplied (such as during water-line flushing, fire-fighting, or breaks in water mains).

back-siphonage:

Back-siphonage is the reverse from normal flow direction within a piping system that is caused by negative pressure in the supply piping (i.e., the reversal of normal flow in a system caused by a vacuum or partial vacuum within the water supply piping). Back-siphonage can occur when there is a high velocity in a pipe line, when there is a line repair or break that is lower than a service point, or when there is lowered main pressure due to high-water withdrawal rate (such as during fire-fighting or water-main flushing).
Atmospheric Vacuum Breakers backflow from home inspection near rapid city sd

Backflow prevention for residences is most commonly accomplished through the use of atmospheric vacuum breakers (AVBs). AVBs operate by allowing the entry of air into a pipe so that a siphon cannot form. AVBs are bent at 90 degrees and are usually composed of brass. Compared with backflow preventer assembles, AVBs are small, simple and inexpensive devices that require little maintenance or testing. They have long life spans and are suitable for residential purposes such as sprinkler systems. InterNACHI inspectors can check for the following:

  • The AVB must be at least 6 inches above any higher point downstream of the device. For this reason, they can never be installed below grade. Even if they are installed 6 inches above grade, inspectors should make sure that they are not installed less than 6 inches above some other point in the system downstream of the device.
  • The AVB cannot be installed in an enclosure containing air contaminants. If contaminated air enters the water piping, it can poison the potable water supply.
  • A shut-off valve should never be placed downstream of any AVB, as this would result in continuous pressure on the AVB.
  • AVBs cannot be subject to continuous pressure for 12 hours in any 24-hour period or they may malfunction.
  • Spillage of water from the top of the AVB is an indication that the device has failed and needs to be replaced.
Types of Backflow Preventer Assemblies

Some types of assemblies are common in commercial and agricultural applications but are rare for residential uses. The appropriate type of backflow preventer for any given application will depend on the degree of potential hazard. The primary types of backflow preventers appropriate for use at municipalities and utilities are:

  • double check valves:  These are commonly used in elevated tanks and non-toxic boilers. Double check-valve assemblies are effective against backflow preventer from home inspection near sturgis sdbackflow caused by back-pressure and back-siphonage and are used to protect the potable water system from low-hazard substances. Double-checks consist of two positive-seating check valves installed as a unit between two tightly closing shut-off valves, and are fitted with testcocks.
  • reduced pressure principle assemblies:  These are commonly used in industrial plants, hospitals, morgues, chemical plants, irrigation systems, boilers, and fire sprinkler systems. Reduced pressure principle assemblies (RPs) protect against back-pressure and back-siphonage of pollutants and contaminants. The assembly is comprised of two internally loaded, independently operating check valves with a mechanically independent, hydraulically dependent relief valve between them.
  • pressure vacuum breakers:  These are commonly used in industrial plants, cooling towers, laboratories, laundries, swimming pools, lawn sprinkler systems, and fire sprinkler systems. Pressure vacuum breakers use a check valve designed to close with the aid of a spring when water flow stops. Its air-inlet valve opens when the internal pressure is one psi above atmospheric pressure, preventing non-potable water from being siphoned back into the potable system. The assembly includes resilient, seated shut-off valves and testcocks.
Requirements for Testers and Inspectors
A number of organizations, such as the American Water Works Association (AWWA) and the American Backflow Prevention Association (ABPA) offer certification courses designed to train professionals to test backflow preventers. Requirements for training vary by jurisdiction. Inspection of backflow preventers requires knowledge of installation requirements, although inspectors are not required to become certified.
In summary, backflow preventers are designed to prevent the reverse flow of water in a potable water system. They come in a number of different types, each of which is suited for different purposes.   This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/backflow-prevention.htm.

Red Horse Home Inspection of the Black Hills.

Red Horse Home Inspection is proud to service the Black Hills area.  We offer buyer and seller home inspections, radon gas testing, and water testing.  Our home inspector is licensed in the state of South Dakota and is an InterNACHI Certified Professional Inspector.  Our service area includes Rapid City, Sturgis, Spearfish, Deadwood, Custer, Hot Springs, Hermosa, Black Hawk, Summerset, Box Elder, New Underwood, and everywhere in between.  If you are buying or selling in the Black Hills please give us a call at 490-2916 or if you are ready to schedule your inspection you can do it online.  Please follow us on Facebook.  Check out a sample home inspection report and see the latest reviews.  Take a look at Red Horse Home Inspection’s Google My Business page.

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Sump Pump Guide

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Kenton Shepard

Sump pumps are self-activating electrical pumps that protect homes from moisture intrusion. They are usually installed below basement or crawlspace floors to remove rising groundwater and surface runoff before it has a chance to seep into the home. Accumulated water can cause interior damage and encourage the growth of mold, mildew, and fungus. Pumps should be maintained and equipped with all necessary components in order to ensure their reliability.

How a Sump Pump Works

A pit, known as a sump pit or sump trench, can be dug at the lowest part of the basement floor to capture and contain any flowing water. A sump pump sits at the bottom of this trench (or beside it) and expels excess water through a series of interconnected pipes to a suitable discharge location. The pump can sense water levels through a float that rises and falls with fluctuating water levels in the trench. The sump pump becomes activated and deactivated based on the height of the float, providing a simple, automated way to monitor and deal with variable water levels.
Types of Sump Pumps
  • Pedestal sump pumps sit above the water line beside the sump trench and are not designed to get wet. Since they are not contained within the sump pit, they can be accessed easily but are also very noisy. They cost roughly $60 to $200, which is significantly less than other varieties.
  • Submersible sump pumps rest underwater at the bottom of the sump pit, and are much quieter than pedestal pumps. Their oil-cooled motors and tight seals protect against water and dust and afford them a long lifespan. They can cost up to $600.
  • Water-powered sump pumps are normally used as backups and kick in when the main pump experiences an electrical or mechanical failure.
Maintenance
  • The pump must be kept clean and free of debris. The inlet screen prevents the passage of dirt and other solid material from entering the pump, but it can become overwhelmed. Cleanings should occur often for pumps that run constantly.
  • Inspectors should make sure that the float is not tangled or jammed in one position. A sump pump with a jammed float is useless because it will not sense when it should turn on and shut off.
  • The pump can be tested by pouring water into the pit to make sure it becomes activated and expels the water. The homeowner should seek professional assistance if the pump does not activate.
  • Maintenance should take place annually, and when the home is sold.
  • When testing the pump, no one should ever reach into the pit. The float can be reached and manipulated with a household item such as a golf club (with a rubber handle) or anything else non-conductive that happens to be lying around.
Inspectors should check for the presence of the following:
  • a GFCI. There is considerable debate among inspectors concerning whether or not a sump pump should be connected to a GFCI. It is possible that a GFCI can prevent electrocution, but it is extremely unlikely that a sump pump will energize water in the first place. It is much more likely that a GFCI will trip during safe conditions and deactivate the sump pump when it is needed. A sump pump is among the most critical of all household appliances, and its deactivation, especially if the tenants are not home, could allow catastrophic building damage. Codes recommend that appliances in basements and crawlspaces be connected to GFCIs to reduce the chance of electrical shock, but this advice is often ignored due to these concerns over nuisance tripping.
  • an alarm. Sump pumps can burn out, lose power, become clogged or misaligned, or malfunction in a variety of other ways. It is valuable to have a warning device installed that will signal water build-up. These alarms can alert homeowners or neighbors of flooding so that it can be resolved before water damage occurs. Alarms are especially important in residences that are not occupied for long periods of time. Inspectors should keep in mind that, while an alarm can be helpful, it is not a requirement.
  • a check valve. This device is the same diameter as the discharge pipe into which it fits and is usually a different color. A check valve should be installed in order to prevent pumped water in the discharge line from re-entering the sump pit when the device is turned off. Without this valve, the pump will have to work twice as hard to remove the same column of water, which causes unnecessary strain to the pump components. A check valve can also prevent the rare yet disturbing possibility that a discharge line connected to a stream or pond will back-siphon into the sump pit.
  • a backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed. For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the home’s water pressure can also be installed as a backup. Installation of a backup power source or backup pump is not a requirement, but can be offered to a client as a recommendation.
  • that the pit that is large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should not be less than 24 inches deep and 18 inches wide. One of the most common reasons why sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit because the pit is too cramped.
  • a cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating into the home.
Discharge Location

InterNACHI inspectors are not required to check for a proper discharge location. They can note an improper discharge if they see it, but searching outdoors for the discharge is not recommended. The following is good general information that can be passed on to the homeowner:

  • Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
  • Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure’s foundation.
  • Water should not drain onto a neighbor’s property without their approval.
  • Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
  • Pumped water should never drain into a residence’s septic system. Especially during heavy rain, a septic drain field will become saturated and will struggle to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the sump pump can damage the septic system.
In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspection will ensure pump efficiency and prolong their lifespan.
This article is for InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/sump-pumps.htm.
Red Horse Home Inspection is based out of Rapid City, SD and services the entire Black Hills area.  Our certified home inspector offers buyer home inspection, pre-listing home inspection, radon testing, and water testing.  If you need to schedule a home inspection you can easily schedule online or call Clint at 490-2916.  Follow us on Facebook.  Check our a sample home inspection report and see the latest reviews.  Take a look at Red Horse Home Inspection Google My Business page.
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Mold Remediation/Abrasive Blasting

by Nick Gromicko, CMI® and Ethan Ward

Mold in the Home

Health concerns related to the growth of mold in the home have been featured heavily in the news.  Problems ranging from itchy eyes, coughing and sneezing to serious allergic reactions, asthma attacks, and even the possibility of permanent lung damage can all be caused by mold, which can be found growing in the home, given the right conditions. home inspector mold inspection rapid city sd

All that is needed for mold to grow is moisture, oxygen, a food source, and a surface to grow on.  Mold spores are commonly found naturally in the air.  If spores land on a wet or damp spot indoors and begin growing, they will lead to problems.  Molds produce allergens, irritants and, in some cases, potentially toxic substances called mycotoxins.  Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.  Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis).  Allergic reactions to mold are common.  They can be immediate or delayed.  Molds can also trigger asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold.  In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people.

As more is understood about the health issues related to mold growth in interior environments, new methods for mold assessment and remediation are being put into practice.  Mold assessment and mold remediation are techniques used in occupational health.  Mold assessment is the process of identifying the location and extent of the mold hazard in a structure.  Mold remediation is the process of cleanup and/or removal of mold from an indoor environment.  Mold remediation is usually conducted by a company with experience in construction, demolition, cleaning, airborne-particle containment-control, and the use of special equipment to protect workers and building occupants from contaminated or irritating dust and organic debris.  A new method that is gaining traction in this area is abrasive blasting.

Abrasive Blasting

The first step in combating mold growth is not to allow for an environment that is conducive to its growth in the first place.  Controlling moisture and assuring that standing water from leaks or floods is eliminated are the most important places to start.  If mold growth has already begun, the mold must be removed completely, and any affected surfaces must be cleaned or repaired.  Traditional methods for remediation have been slow and tedious, often involving copious amounts of hand-scrubbing and sanding.  Abrasive blasting is a new technique that is proving to be less tedious and time-consuming, while maintaining a high level of effectiveness.

Abrasive blasting is a process for cleaning or finishing objects by using an air-blast or centrifugal wheel that throws abrasive particles against the surface of the work pieces. Sand, dry ice and corncobs are just some of the different types of media used in blasting.  For the purposes of mold remediation, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and dry ice are the media commonly used.

Benefits of Abrasive Blasting

Abrasive (or “media”) blasting provides some distinct advantages over traditional techniques of mold remediation.  In addition to eliminating much of the tedious labor involved in scrubbing and sanding by hand, abrasive blasting is extremely useful for cleaning irregular and hard-to-reach surfaces.  Surfaces that have cross-bracing or bridging can be cleaned more easily, as well as areas such as the bottom of a deck, where nails may be protruding.  Areas that are difficult to access, such as attics and crawlspaces, can also be cleaned more easily with abrasive blasting than by traditional methods.  The time saved is also an advantage, and the typical timeframe for completion of a mold remediation project can often be greatly reduced by utilizing abrasive blasting.

Soda-Blasting

Soda-blasting is a type of abrasive blasting that utilizes sodium bicarbonate as the medium propelled by compressed air.  One of the earliest and most widely publicized uses of soda-blasting was on the restoration of the Statue of Liberty. In May of 1982, President Ronald Reagan appointed Lee Iacocca to head up a private-sector effort for the project.  statue of libertyFundraising began for the $87 million restoration under a public-private partnership between the National Park Service and The Statue of Liberty-Ellis Island Foundation, Inc.  After extensive work that included the use of soda-blasting, the restored monument re-opened to the public on July 5, 1986, during Liberty Weekend, which celebrated the statue’s  centennial.

The baking soda used in soda-blasting is soft but angular, appearing knife-like under a microscope.  The crystals are manufactured in state-of-the-art facilities to ensure that the right size and shape are consistently produced.  Baking soda is water-soluble, with a pH near neutral. Baking-soda abrasive blasting effectively removes mold while minimizing damage to the underlying surface (i.e., wood, PVC, modern wiring, ductwork, etc.).  When using the proper equipment setup (correct nozzles, media regulators, hoses, etc.) and technique (proper air flow, pressure, angle of attack, etc.), the process allows for fast and efficient removal of mold, with a minimum of damage, waste and cleanup.  By using a soda blaster with the correct-size nozzle, the amount of baking soda used is minimized. Minimal baking soda means better visibility while working, and less cleanup afterward.

Dry-Ice Blasting

Dry ice is solidified carbon dioxide that, at -78.5° C and ambient pressure, changes directly into a gas as it absorbs heat.  Dry ice pellets are made by taking liquid carbon dioxide (CO2) from a pressurized storage tank and expanding it at ambient pressure to produce snow.  The snow is then compressed through a die to make hard pellets.  The pellets are readily available from most dry ice suppliers nationwide.  For dry-ice blasting, the standard size used is 1/8-inch, high-density dry ice pellets.

The dry-ice blasting process includes three phases, the first of which is energy transfer.  Energy transfer works when dry ice pellets are propelled out of the blasting gun at supersonic speed and impact the surface. The energy transfer helps to knock mold off the surface being cleaned, with little or no damage.

The freezing effect of the dry ice pellets hitting the mold creates the second phase, which is micro-thermal shock, caused by the dry ice’s temperature of -79º C, between the mold and the contaminated surface.  This phase isn’t as much a factor in the removal of mold as it is for removing resins, oils, waxes, food particles, and other contaminants and debris.  For these types of substances, the thermal shock causes cracking and delaminating of the contaminant, furthering the elimination process.

The final phase is gas pressure, which happens when the dry ice pellets explode on impact.  As the pellets warm, they convert to CO2 gas, generating a volume expansion of 400 to 800 times.  The rapid gas expansion underneath the mold forces it off the surface.

HEPA Vacuuming

A HEPA vacuum is a vacuum cleaner with a high-efficiency particulate air (or HEPA) filter through which the contaminated air flows.  HEPA filters, as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy’s standard adopted by most American industries, remove at least 99.97% of airborne particles that are as small as 0.3 micrometers (µm) in diameter.  HEPA vacuuming is necessary in conjunction with blasting for complete mold removal.

While abrasive blasting with either baking soda or dry ice is an effective technique, remediation will not be complete until HEPA filtering or vacuuming has been done.  Abrasive blasting removes mold from contaminated surfaces, but it also causes the mold spores to become airborne again.  The spores can cover the ground and the surfaces that have already been cleaned.  So, the mold spores need to be removed by HEPA filters.  Additionally, while some remediation companies claim that there will be no blasting media to remove after cleaning, especially with the dry-ice method, there will be at least a small amount of visible debris left by the blasting that must be removed before HEPA vacuuming can occur.  HEPA vacuuming removes all invisible contaminants from surfaces and the surrounding air.  When HEPA vacuuming is completed, samples at the previously contaminated areas should be re-tested to ensure that no mold or mold spores remain.

Abrasive blasting using dry ice or baking soda, combined with HEPA-filter vacuuming, is an effective method for mold remediation.  InterNACHI inspectors who offer ancillary mold inspection services should be aware of the benefits and applications of this technique adapted for remediating mold in homes.  This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/abrasive-blasting.htm.
Red Horse Home Inspection services the Black Hills of South Dakota.  We cover all of the Black Hills which includes Rapid City, Piedmont, Black Hawk, Summerset, Sturgis, Whitewood, Spearfish, Belle Fourche, Deadwood, Lead, Hot Springs, Custer, Hill City, Keystone, Hermosa, Hermosa, Box Elder, Rapid Valley, and everywhere in between.  Our home inspector is certified and licensed in South Dakota.  Red Horse Home Inspection offers radon testing and water testing.  You can easily schedule your home inspection, radon, and water test online.  Please follow us on Facebook.  Check out a sample home inspection report and see the latest reviews.  Take a look at our Google My Business page.
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InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector

certified home inspector rapid cityBuying a home? It is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the value of the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring an InterNACHI-certified inspector is almost insignificant by comparison.

You have recently been crunching the numbers — negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages — and trying to get the best deals. Don’t stop now. Don’t let your real estate agent, a “patty-cake” inspector, or anyone else talk you into skimping on the home inspection. InterNACHI-certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far.

InterNACHI-certified inspectors earn their fees many times over. As the most qualified inspectors, they do more, they deserve more, and — yes — they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.  This article is from InterNACHI and can be found at https://www.nachi.org/smartchoice.htm.
Our home inspector at Red Horse Home Inspection is an InterNACHI certified home inspector.  If you are ready to schedule your home inspection you can do it online.  Follow us on Facebook.  Take a look at a sample home inspection report and see the latest reviews.  Check out our Google My Business Page.
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